plant-based perfection
Fun, colorful, healthy. Wholesome and surprising, just like the rhythm of the seasons. A cuisine that speaks the language of roots and leaves, petals and plants, berries and stems. Not as a side note, but as true protagonists of the plate. Here are seven must-try vegetable creations for your summer table
Words Irene Arquint - Photography Gabriele Ancillotti
No longer monotonous or an afterthought, vegetables are taking center stage in contemporary cuisine. Today, they speak the language of roots and leaves, petals and stems, berries, and ancient traditions. This vibrant and diverse plant-forward philosophy embodies the allure of ancestral anthropology, respecting nature’s cycle from dawn to dusk. They are ever-present on tables and between the fingers of those who envision dishes with a heart attuned to their guests and the environment. “Vegetables are no longer just an alternative; they are now the stars of the show,” says Michelin-starred chef Valentino Cassanelli of Lux Lucis in Forte dei Marmi. “With advanced techniques, we can elevate their flavors to compete with fish and meat in both intensity and complexity. They also serve as a strong expression of the local area.”
[1] Fungo laccato, latte di pigna ed erbe di campo
We asked seven top chefs to create a dish where vegetables take the lead. For some, like Cassanelli, this comes naturally – his menu already features an entirely plant-based tasting experience: “that’s because the tasting imprinting is now very similar to the omnivorous one.” One of his signature dishes reimagines the cardoncello mushroom to capture the richness and tenderness of pigeon meat, while providing a juicy, crunchy texture [1]. Paired with crispy pine nut bread exuding the aromas of resins, it has a Mediterranean wild herb salsa (helichrysum, lemon thyme, sage) and a deep-flavored vegetable reduction made from kitchen scraps.
[2] Delizie del mare e primizie dell’orto
Circularity is also key for Gabriele Polonia of Alex in Marina di Pietrasanta. His plant-based twist on a traditional seafood salad transforms vegetable trimmings into powders and extracts, stating, “because matter has dignity, and must be respected.” [2] To honor this, he utilizes every part of the plant—from lightly blanched asparagus with raw flowers to marinated leaves—he creates an iron-rich spinach sauce (a sort of aromatic, vitamin-packed punch) topped off with watercress sprouts and chlorophyll-infused essential parsley oil.
[3] Orto di mare
Simone Andreano of Il Posto in Pietrasanta takes cues from the traditional pinzimonio (fresh vegetables dipped in olive oil and salt), pairing a seabass carpaccio with a medley of finely chopped saltwort, carrots, fennel, celery, celeriac, and radishe [3]. This cooked-to-order dish is all about freshness, perfect for summer, and crunchy poppy seeds enhance its texture.
[4] Tagliatelle di sedano rapa, pompelmo rosa e bagna càuda
The fil rouge of this return to the earth is seasonality [4], and our chef’s creativity gives it wings. At Sciabola in Forte dei Marmi, Alessandro Ferrarini reimagines celeriac as pasta, slicing it into tagliatelle and cooking it in bagna cauda (a traditional Piedmontese sauce with anchovies and garlic), where the anchovy enhances the salty taste, offset by the refreshing zing of pink grapefruit.
[5] Insalata di Nopal e ortaggi con lamine di polpo alla galiziana e zafferano
In the discussion of reimagined dishes, Giulia Franchi from the Enoteca named after her blends Iberian and Versiliese influences with the antioxidant power of young, tender cactus pads. She carefully removes their thorns without causing damage and pairs them with octopus, a dash of paprika, and Quercetano olive oil [5].
[6] Scorfano scottato con cardoncelli confit, verdure croccanti e salicornia
In Marina di Carrara, Alessandro Lucchinelli of The Village adds glasswort for a briny twist on redfish fillet, with cardoncello mushrooms confit providing an explosive texture and lightly sautéed seasonal vegetables adding layers of crunch and freshness [6].
[7] Mosaico di ortaggi
Finally, Michele Mascia of Bistrot dei Bagni di Villa Grey, presents us a true vegetable mosaic of colors, forms, and different textures [7], where a soft-poached egg rests atop a colorful array of barely-blanched peas, asparagus, green beans, carrots, chicory, bok choi, radishes, saltwort, caper flowers, onion petals, and foraged herbs – each ingredient thoughtfully prepared as powders, gels, mayonnaises, essential oils, or left intact. Together, these creations celebrate the perfection of plants.
Si ringraziano per la collaborazione: Lux Lucis, Forte dei Marmi | Bistrot dei Bagni di Villa Grey, Forte dei Marmi | Enoteca Giulia, Forte dei Marmi | Sciabola, Forte dei Marmi | The Village, Marina di Carrara | Alex, Marina di Pietrasanta | Il Posto, Pietrasanta
